Discovering the hidden streets of Tbilisi

Tbilisi caught me completely off guard. I’d heard whispers about Georgia’s capital from a few well-traveled friends, but nothing prepared me for the sheer character of this place. The city sprawls across hills on both sides of the Mtkvari River, and every winding street seems to hide something unexpected.

The Old Town is where you’ll want to spend most of your time. Narrow cobblestone streets lead past wooden balconies that lean precariously over the pavement, their ornate carved details weathered by time but still beautiful. I spent hours just wandering, getting lost on purpose, stumbling into courtyards where locals hung laundry and elderly men played backgammon.

The food scene here deserves its own paragraph. Khachapuri, the cheese-filled bread that’s Georgia’s national dish, became my daily obsession. Each region has its own version, but the Adjarian style topped with an egg and butter is pure comfort food. Pair it with a glass of Georgian wine from a qvevri, and you’ve got a perfect meal.

Don’t miss the sulfur baths in the Abanotubani district. These traditional bathhouses have been around since the city’s founding, and while they might look a bit rough around the edges, soaking in the warm, mineral-rich water after a day of walking is absolute bliss.

What struck me most was how friendly everyone was. Despite the language barrier, people went out of their way to help, whether it was giving directions or recommending their favorite restaurant. Tbilisi feels like a city on the cusp of change, still authentic but slowly being discovered by the wider world.