Diving the reefs of Mozambique

Mozambique wasn’t easy to get to, which is probably why the diving was so good. I flew into Vilankulo, a dusty coastal town that serves as the jumping-off point for the Bazaruto Archipelago.

The archipelago is a series of islands with white sand beaches, turquoise water, and some of the best marine life in the Indian Ocean. I spent a week at a small dive resort on Benguerra Island, where the beach was empty except for the occasional local fisherman and the diving was extraordinary.

The reefs here are pristine. We saw manta rays gliding overhead, their wingspans easily three meters. Enormous groupers that looked like they’d been there since the beginning of time. Reef sharks, turtles, octopuses hiding in crevices. On one dive, we encountered a pod of dolphins that seemed as curious about us as we were about them.

What made Mozambique special was how undeveloped it still feels. There are no mega-resorts or jet skis or crowds. Most islands have just one or two small lodges. The pace is slow, dictated by tide times and weather. We’d dive in the mornings, spend afternoons swimming or reading in hammocks, and evenings were simple fish dinners under the stars.

I took a dhow, a traditional wooden sailing boat, over to Bazaruto Island one day. The sail was peaceful, just the sound of wind in the canvas and water against the hull. On the island, we hiked up giant sand dunes that gave views across the whole archipelago. The sand was so white it was almost blinding.

The water itself was remarkable. You could wade out chest-deep and still see your toes. The colors shifted constantly - deep blue where it was deep, bright turquoise over sand, darker over reef. I spent hours just snorkeling off the beach, not going anywhere in particular, just floating and watching fish.

The local culture is a mix of African, Arab, and Portuguese influences. The main language is Portuguese, the food often features peri-peri spice, and there’s a definite African energy to everything. Our dive guides were from the local villages, and they knew the reefs better than anyone, pointing out creatures we never would have spotted.

Mozambique requires some flexibility. Things don’t always run on schedule. The power sometimes cuts out. The food options are limited. But if you’re willing to embrace the slower pace and lower level of infrastructure, you’re rewarded with an experience that feels increasingly rare: beautiful nature without crowds, authentic cultural interactions, and diving that rivals anywhere in the world.