Mountains and myths in Slovenia

Slovenia might be one of Europe’s smallest countries, but it overdelivers in every way. I spent two weeks here and barely scratched the surface.

I started in Ljubljana, the capital, which immediately became one of my favorite European cities. It’s small enough to walk everywhere, there’s a castle on a hill overlooking the old town, and the Ljubljanica River runs through the center with cafes and restaurants lining both banks. The city has a relaxed, livable feel. I spent afternoons reading by the river, evenings eating at small restaurants in the old town.

The real draw of Slovenia is its nature. Lake Bled is famous and deserves to be - that little island with a church in the middle of an Alpine lake is legitimately magical. I rented a boat and rowed out to the island, climbed the ninety-nine steps to the church, and rang the bell for good luck like you’re supposed to do.

But Lake Bohinj, just thirty minutes away, was less crowded and maybe even more beautiful. The mountains rise steeply from the water’s edge, and the lake has a wild feel that Bled has lost to tourism. I hiked around it one day, stopping halfway to swim in water so cold and clear I could see straight to the bottom.

The Julian Alps deserve weeks of exploration. I hiked to the Triglav Lakes Valley, a series of seven glacial lakes at different elevations. The trails wind through pine forests and karst landscapes, crossing mountain passes where you can see forever. I spent a night at a mountain hut, sharing meals and stories with other hikers from all over Europe.

Slovenia is also cave country. I visited Postojna Cave, one of the largest karst cave systems in the world. You ride a train through the first section - yes, a train underground - and then walk through vast chambers filled with stalactites and stalagmites. The formations are incredible, some looking like frozen curtains, others like organ pipes.

But Skocjan Caves, less visited, were even more impressive. Here, an entire river disappears underground, carving huge caverns. You walk across a bridge suspended high above the rushing water, and the scale of the chambers is mind-blowing. It’s like something out of a fantasy novel.

The food was hearty and good. Lots of game, mushrooms, dumplings, and stews. I had a meal at a traditional gostilna in the countryside where everything - venison, bread, cheese, vegetables - came from within a few kilometers. The owner made his own wine and insisted I try several varieties.

What I loved about Slovenia was the lack of pretension. It doesn’t try to compete with bigger neighbors like Italy or Austria. It just quietly offers incredible landscapes, friendly people, and good food. It’s the kind of place you tell your friends about but also secretly hope doesn’t become too popular.