Slow travel in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang has a way of slowing you down whether you want it to or not. This former royal capital, where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet, feels like a place out of time. French colonial architecture sits alongside Buddhist temples, and the whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I fell into a routine quickly. Wake up before dawn to watch the alms giving ceremony, where hundreds of monks walk silently through the streets collecting food from locals. It’s a sacred tradition, and as a tourist, I mostly just watched from a respectful distance. The sight of all those saffron robes in the early morning light, the quiet devotion of it, set a peaceful tone for each day.

After that, I’d grab coffee and a baguette (Laos has excellent baguettes, thanks to French influence) and wander. The town is small enough to walk everywhere, and I’d inevitably end up at one of the many temples. Wat Xieng Thong, with its sweeping roofs that nearly touch the ground, became my favorite. The detail on the buildings, the gold stenciling on red and black, the tree of life mosaic on the back wall - it’s all stunning.

The afternoons were for slower pursuits. Reading by the river. Taking a cooking class where I learned to make laap and sticky rice. Visiting the night market where hill tribe women sell handwoven textiles. I bought a scarf I definitely didn’t need but use constantly now.

One day I rented a bicycle and rode out to Kuang Si Falls. The ride was hot and hilly, and I questioned my choices several times, but the falls were worth it. Turquoise pools cascade down limestone formations, and you can swim in several of them. I spent hours there, alternating between swimming in the cool water and lying on the rocks to dry off in the sun.

The food was simple but good. Khao soi, a coconut curry noodle soup, became my regular lunch. Fresh spring rolls from vendors by the river. And more sticky rice than I’ve ever eaten in my life, served in little woven baskets.

What I loved about Luang Prabang was that there wasn’t pressure to constantly do things. The town’s beauty is in just being there, watching the rivers flow, seeing monks go about their daily routines, eating good food, and letting time move at a different speed.