Surf and soul in Portugal

Portugal has become incredibly popular in the last few years, and I finally understand why. I spent a month there, splitting time between Lisbon, Porto, and the coast, and it immediately became one of my favorite European countries.

Lisbon is built on hills, and walking it means constantly going up and down steep streets, but the views from the top make it worth it. The Alfama district is a maze of narrow alleys, traditional fado houses where you can hear Portugal’s melancholic music, and little tasca restaurants serving grilled sardines and bacalhau. I lived on pasteis de nata, those custard tarts that are somehow both crispy and creamy.

I took tram 28, the famous yellow one that rattles through the historic districts. It’s touristy but also just a regular tram that locals use, so you get a mix. Grab a window seat if you can - the tram squeezes through streets that seem impossibly narrow.

Lisbon’s food scene is serious. I had one of my best meals of the year at a tiny restaurant in Mouraria, the old Moorish quarter. Octopus grilled to perfection, white wine from Alentejo, and conversation with the chef who came out between courses to chat.

Porto, in the north, has a grittier feel than Lisbon. The Ribeira district along the river is all colorful buildings and port wine lodges. I did the requisite port tasting - tawny ports in particular are incredible - and then spent my time wandering the less touristy neighborhoods. The Bolhao Market, recently renovated, is where locals shop for produce and fish.

But I came for the coast. I headed to Ericeira, a fishing town that’s also a World Surfing Reserve. The beaches here are incredible, rocky coves with powerful waves. I’m not a great surfer, but I took a few lessons and spent most days in the water, getting worked by the Atlantic.

Further south, the Algarve has a different vibe. More developed, more tourists, but also stunning beaches. I based myself in Lagos and explored from there. Praia da Marinha is as beautiful as any beach I’ve seen, dramatic cliffs and rock formations and water that shifts between blue and green. I kayaked along the coast, ducking through sea caves and arches.

The food in the Algarve is seafood-focused, as you’d expect. Cataplana, a seafood stew cooked in a copper pot. Grilled fish so fresh it was probably swimming that morning. And always, good wine. Portuguese wine doesn’t get enough credit internationally, but it’s excellent and affordable.

What I loved about Portugal was how livable it felt. Good food, beautiful places, friendly people, reasonable prices compared to much of Western Europe. It’s easy to imagine staying longer, finding a routine, becoming a regular somewhere. Which is probably why so many people are moving there.